The Blue Mosque

Also known as the Sultanahmet Mosque, the Blue Mosque dominated much of the day’s activity.  It so dominates the area (for which it is named), and is visible from places like the roof of my hotel, that I had sort of taken if for granted since my arrival.  But one of the Aussie/Kiwis of the night before sang its praises, so I had to go.  And what a marvel it is. 

I had to wait close to an hour to enter, as it closes during prayers throughout the day.  But that time was spent wandering around its perimeters, taking in the slightest hints of what might lay inside.  I’ll try to keep this brief, but it was one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen.  No camera, especially my camera with my limited knowledge of how to use it, can really begin to do it justice.   But I submit these few pics as evidence.  Being at Sultanahmet is probably frustrating for tourists and the faithful alike because even when prayers are over, the pious are still there praying, and the area that is demarcated as the tourist zone never really allows you closer access to the beauty of the place.  Which is probably just as well because given the scope and enormity of the place, you’d have to start scaling ladders and scaffolding or something. 

From there I ventured to the Museum of Turkish Art and Design, or something like that.  Right across the street from Sultanahmet.  Nice little museum with a current exhibition marking a significant anniversary of the Qu’ran. 

One of the ubiquitous street foods is a thin ringed bread with sesame seeds, been eyeing since day one.  It was okay, would’ve been better warm or with a hint of garlic or onion. 

Came back to the hotel only to find that this part of Sultanahmet (the district) was without electricity.  So much for charging my camera battery.   Instead, I head off to the ferry for a little jaunt to Asia.  Yes, Asia.  As most of you know, Istanbul has the distinction of being the only city in the world that lies on two continents.  It’s sort of like going to Staten Island!  The weather is probably the nicest since I have been here and the sunset is pretty.   When I get to Kadikoy (there are different ports/neighborhoods/districts on the Asian side with ferries to them), I smell fish. Lots and lots of fried fish.  I line up at one of the many vendors and order my fried fish sandwich and top it with salt, lemon juice, some ever-present red flakes that might be red pepper or sumac or something else delicious, and thin pickled peppers.  OMG!  It was so good.  Best thing I had eaten so far, but then having laced my sandwich with four peppers, it starts being a landmine for my tongue. The last one in particular found the left side of my tongue and sent a hurting, burning, fiery track right up through my nose into my head.  Ow, it burned so bad my nose was running and I had to buy 2 fresh orange juices to begin to quell the flame.  Phew.  But the damage had been done.  I was hooked.

The ferry ride itself was nice, though the Bosporus at night is dark and foreboding.

On my way home from the ferry, another pair of friendly salesmen who stalk the streets outside their stores ready to prey on passing tourist, snared me into their trap.  The encounter goes something like,

Salesman: “Japan?  Konichiwa? “

No Sale, Man:  “New York.” 

Salesman: “Really?  Do you know how to get to Carnegie Hall?”

No Sale, Man: “Practice.”

Salesman: “Ha.  You know we got a couple of old buildings in this area…” (referencing Aya Sofya and Blue Mosque)

No Sale, Man: “Oh I know.  Yeah, those two aren’t much to look at…”
And before he can pull me in further, I break free and continue on my way home. 


Also, thanks to Ed for reminding me, rest in peace Pete Postlethwaite.